Monday, October 19, 2009

Contrasts



One of the concepts that has stuck in my mind as I have lived and travelled in Guatemala and now Nicaragua is that it is a land of extreme contrasts in almost everything:  hundreds of super skinny nursing dogs scrounge in street next to a few beloved pets, ancient Maya women with no shoes beg outside of Jade jewelery shops, tropical jungle rivers are gargabe dumps, SUVs with blackened windows drive past shack houses of dirt and sticks. Lots of it is difficult or degrading to capture on camera, but below are some examples.

Roadside vistas




Guatemala City


Cobblestones and confetti


Earth and sky


Marimba (traditional guatemala music) Concert


Guatemala City


Our host in traditional San Antonio Zamora


Our table side beggar in Monterrico



Sunday morning work


Childhoods


Lush



Not


Volcanoes: maize and geothermal energy plants


Colours


Fresh orange juice


Lava and life


Barbed wire jungles


Palms, cactii, and pines.


Parking lot for the pueblo bar



Guatemalan Volcanos

As a hydrogeologist, one of the things I was really looking forward to in Guatemala was seeing the volcanos.Guatemala has 35 official volcanos, forming a rim west-east across the country.



The ones that I´ve seen are Fuego (6), Acatenango (3), Agua (5), Pacaya (15), Atitlán (8), Tolimán (10), San Pedro (11), and Ipala (28).  The red numbers above indicate still active volcanoes.  Fuego, Acatenango, Agua surround the city of Antigu, but currently all are too dangerous to climb, not due to volcanic activity but to human threats. There are villages up the entire slopes of many of the volcanos and have been cases of robbery and worse.


I could see Fuego and Acatenango from the patio outside my room in Antigua; Aqua is the south direction marker for everywhere in Antigua. Aqua is also the one we ran part way down with a torch for Guatemalan Independence Day.

Volcan Aqua


Volcan Fuego


Although this area of Guatemala is mountainous, these volcanos can be seen from hundreds of kilometres away.  (Fuego and Acatenango seen below)



Aqua in the foreground, Fuego and Acatenangoint he background, with lava on Pacaya framing the foreground.


Pacaya has been made a national park recently and is now secure for people to climb.  This is the one I climbed first.  The first hour is just a climb through the forest, villages, and corn fields. And then suddenly you emerge on a field of black. A steep, rough climb over new rock leads you as close to the lava as your skin and shoes can stand. The lava is quite different each day, somedays flowing like a river.  Unfortunately when we went it was not quite as strong.













The second volcano I climbed involved 11 hours of driving in the same day, but was very interesting as it is not visited by tourists, is inactive and the small crater is filled with a lake.




And in strange, not understood Guatemala reasoning we had a picnic at the top with 2 large pots of chicken, about 30 avocados, 30 tomatos, 4 litres of pop, 2 litres of rum, plastic tables.  I couldn´t resist a picture of my friend Nora carrying a pot and strainer while climbing a volcano in 35degree heat.




The lat set of volcanos that I saw are at Lago Atitlan. Lago Atitlan actually fills an enormas crater of a former volcano that collasped. Now, the lake is rimmed by 3 smaller, young volcanos.  The rim of the massive old volcano is still evident around the lake and the 3 volcanos are evident all around the lake. Although the three volcanos are labelled as inactive, there is still is evidence of a significant amount of heat. I went diving here and the sediments are so hot in some places you can´t keep your fingers in for more than 20 seconds. And in other places it is possible to see the hot water discharging from the bottom, mixing with the cooler lake water.

 

 

Saturday, October 10, 2009

Monte Rico

Monterrico is a small Guatemala beach town on the Pacific that on weekends turns a little crazy with Guatemaltecas from the capital.  We stayed in a little place that was fantastic and cheap, but had a very loud outdoor bar very close to our open air dorm.  Not much sleep followed by an early morning at 5 on Sunday!



Lots of beach time and drinks in the beachside bar at our hotel.



After 2 weeks of eating with a Guatemala family, we were very excited to eat seafood, and food with some favours. The local good restaurant has a resident pelican, Pablo, that begs from each table. Strange experience, especially after a couple of beverages in the sun at the beach.



Our hotel was right on the beach.



But the Pacific was too strong to swim in.





Hotel beach hammocks


Local afternoon pass time and transportation.


In the evening we went walking on the beach to see turtles laying eggs. The three of us were extremely luck to see two different turtles in the course of 2 hours, both very large with about 80 eggs each. It actually felt a little invasive though.



Sunday morning we got up at 5 AM to go on a lancha tour of the Reserva Biotopo, a large mangrove swamp area.  The sunrise over the water was absolutely gorgeous. Even from the coast it was possible to see the 3 volcanoes that are close to Antigua - Volcan Pacaya, Volcan Agua, and Volcan Fuega.


The whole area is a mangrove swamp with blanco and negro mangroves, lots of wildlife, cool water plants.